Luwak Coffee (Bali, Indonesia)

Finding a way to increase the economic margin in rural areas, especially when it comes to agriculture is not easy, and a best practice is BAS Agrotourism, close to Kintamani on Bali (Indonesia): S08 Deg. 22.231”, E 115 Deg. 20.398’.

The farm is specialized on crops like coffee, cacao, ginseng, lemon grass and has the attraction of Luwak Coffee. Luwaks are fed with coffee beans and as they only eat the best ones, their excrement is then roasted to what is claimed the best coffee in the world. And it actually is a very good coffee, even it is not easy to compare directly because of the Indonesian way of brewing it (no perculation, just putting the coffee powder in the cup and let it sediment. The closest way of making coffee like this is using a Bodum pot

BAS also runs an organic shop at prices mainly targeting foreign tourists and the owner also records and markets Balinese music.

“Insel der Daemonen” (Island of Daemons)

Friedrich Da(h)lheim’s movie “Die Insel der Daemonen” (1933) and artists like Walter Spiess shaped the perception of Bali as a mysterious island East of Java and Sumatra. The cultural centre of the island still is Ubud, about one hour’s drive north from Denpasar, where Spiess cultivated an art scene starting from 1927 until shortly before his death in 1942; when a Japanese bomb hit the ship on which he was deported. One of the impressing Centers cherishing Balinese culture and art is the ARMA Museum (S 08 Deg 31.404’, E 115 Deg 15.931’), which is exhibiting all styles of art and keeps customs alive by many cultural events. A very good bookshop with a large section of books on historical and contempoary Indonesian topics is the Ganesha Bookshop, only a few hundred meters along the street from the ARMA Museum to the city centre.

As travel preparation Leonard Luera’s “Ubud is a mood” (2004) is far superior to any conventional travel guide. It is not available on Amazon, but the Ganesha Bookshop offers mail order service too. 

One and a half hours drive further North into the volcanic region close to Kintamani you can stay in the Caldera around the stratovolcano Mount Batur, at the shore of a large lake on the foot of the mountain. The two main villages are Kidisan and Toya Bungkah (S 08 Deg 15.232”, E 115 Deg 024.023’). Both villages are a bit filthy and hostels are simple (but not cheap at first sight). The best view point is not the volcano itself, but to go for the sunrise up to the caldera rim. An excellent point is S 08 Deg 16.061’, E 115 Deg 25.819’. At around 1600 m height, from here you look actually down on Mount Batur, which is 1412 m heigh, and furthermore you see the “Home of the Gods”, which is the 2567 m heigh Mount Agung down the Eastern Caldera flank. The hike through the mountain jungle starting in the early morning from 3 am is a safe tourist repellent and there will be nobody else for sure. A good walk from there is over the rim of the caldera to the Northern tip of Lake Batur from where you can see the volcano reflected in the water. Here you pass above the village Trunyan, which inhabitants are described as “primitive”, due to not  cremate or bury their dead but operate their cemetery like some kind of smelly human compost in a village called Kuban, where the corpses are deteriorating in bamboo cages. The villagers have their fields up the mountains, ask for money, and support their arguments with simple carabiner hunting rifles, caliber .22 hornet. Also this keeps the ordinary tourist away, which makes such incidents not a robbery, but a “service charge”.

The way back South has a very scenic rout, passing Sueter, Pempatan, Menanga, Rendan and then turn left via Mucan, Peringsari, Selat, Duda, Sibetan, Bebandem, Bungaya Kagin and Amlapura. Then follow the coast rout to Denpasar. Avoid Kuta.

Bali is an incredibly interesting place. Really an island of daemons, ceremonies a beautiful nature and a sophisticated art scene. Ideal, not to travel a week, but to stay at least a month after six months reading.

Arma Museum (Ubud)

Shame on me that when I heard about the “ARMA” museum I thought first about Box-Jenkings “Autoregressive Moving Average” (ARMA) which is a stochastic autoregression model to analyze time series. To my surprise I found that the ARMA Museum in Ubud, Bali (Indonesia) analyses time series in a very different way then I expected and the name here stands for Agung Rai Museum of Art, named after the founders of the ARMA foundation Mr. and Mrs. Agung Rai.

The museum is a very impressive mirror of all styles of Balinese Arts and exhibiting the works of I Gusti Nyoman Lempad, Ida Bagus Made as well as in a separate building the fusion of Balinese and foreign arts including Walter Spies. 

ARMA is aiming to be more than just a Museum, in terms of exhibiting great works in a great manner, but also is an active part in practicing balinese cultural heritage, like dance and wood carving. The building has the typical grass thatched roof and opens up large halls inside. And the garden around is a beautiful merger of sculptures and nature.

The entrance ticket includes a Balinese coffee for free and the very nice wardens that show you around, are excited and interested about their museum as if they would have inhaled the mission of spreading the spirit (in the usual Balinese polite way).

This museum convinced me that I need to come back for longer after a lot of reading.

“One child, one desk, one chair”

Yao Shing Xiang  is a Chinese writer from Guizhou Province and he tells how he went very early with his mother on the long walk to the market to sell their vegetable. On one of these days many farmers were offering their crops and prices tumbled and at evening time somebody from a public canteen offered to buy all their vegetables if she can issue a receipt. She asked her son, who was in the first year primary school, but even he tried hard, he could not do it. Then his mother tried again very hard to write her name and the little Shing Xiang watched her turning tearful. Yao Shing Xiang worked very hard starting in a Chinese rural Primary School and decades later became a writer. When he published his first book he went to his mother and pointed to his name on the cover. But his mother could not recognize the characters for his name. This time his eyes filled with tears.(Shenzhen Airlines inflight magazine, 04/09, page 22).

In 2006 Mr. Zeng from the Shanghai Volkswagen Foreign Service Department agreed to convert a part of my generous Volkswagen “Expat package” into a donation for a primary school in one of the poorest regions in China. The money was submitted jointly with my landlord, the Santana Real Estate Company, represented by Mr. Gu via the Chinese “Hope” initiative and used to construct a new building in the “Bing Hui Primary School” in Yiliang County. It is named after General Luo Bing Hui (1897-1946) who became famous in the war against the Japanese invasion. General Luo was born in a village a few hours walk from the school location in Yiliang and his widow in Shanghai organized the support of 100 such schools in 2005/06. Kindly guided, supervised and hosted by the Secretary of the Chinese Communist Youth League of Yiliang County, Mr. Li Fu Chung, and the Deputy Director of the Education Department, Mrs. Yian, I inspected the building and facilities over what we call Easter Holidays and was very impressed by the determination of the local government authorities and staff to achieve the aim of 9 year free education and “one child, one desk, one chair”.

Given the conditions, this is a tremendous battle against the odds. At an average income of 80 US$ per year the workforce of the children is a significant help in the families and it is not easy to enforce the compulsory school law. The main income comes from farming and some children have a three hour walk from their dwellings before they reach school which starts at 8 am. The largest employer is the government and the army, followed by lead and zinc mining operations which discharge directly into the Yiliang River. Some environmental management procedures seem in place, but a site like this is likely to bring in general an economically better, but shorter life. The county government is collecting locally a tax per ton of truck loads at roadside haul truck balances. Also at these road sides, walk black coal miners with small children on their hands, back home after their shifts. They come out of small, mostly illegal, mines hidden in the mountains. As lead and zinc deposits usually coexist with other heavy metals and minerals which are even far more toxic, it is easy to imagine the level of contamination the people are exposed to. It is hard monitor what effect this has on public health and birth defects even more so as many disfigured babies might never see sunlight of their first day. I was told that 80 % of the counties income is from mining and nearly all of it is spent on employment, infrastructure, public services and education.

The “Bing Hui Primary School” is located a few kilometers outside the main settlement at coordinates N27Deg.38.756’, E104Deg.01.846’, 820 mNN and currently provides 251 lively children primary education and food in a very nice environment. It is easy to be moved by all these children strolling around, playing and learning. The building which was newly built with the donation’s money is a very nice and white two floor brick construction with a concrete frame which should withstand a sudden earthquake, like the one in Sichuan, but at least a Magnitude of 6 Richter Scale. The construction was supervised by Mr. Li (Xiao Li) from the Education Department, a very diligent and knowledgeable young man, who knows what he talks about.

Isn’t it stereotypical “German” of me that I talk more about the engineering side of it than about the children? But I don’t know what to say. They are as innocent and smart as any children, I guess. And of course, I am very proud of the school and co-sponsoring it is something really significant. But how will these little lives go on? Some of these boys, perhaps the strong ones, will die in the shafts of an illegal mine. Others, perhaps the clever ones, will turn into members of the local mining mafia or become corrupted funtionairs. Some of the pretty girls will perhaps move to Guangzhou and work in a shady Karaoke Bar. Others will turn old far to early under the weight of their baskets carrying their vegetables to the market. To break the cycle of poverty there is much more to do than getting lost in a romantic little primary school in Yiliang County.

After a strenuous journey back to Hong Kong I read in the news that China is urged by the so-called International Community to play a stronger role in supporting the global financial system in the current economic downturn by its currency reserves. China had many glorious moments over the last years and impressed the world with an enormous economic growth and last but not least with the most spectacular Olympic Games in 2008. But after all China is still a poor country and it were all these millions of Chinese workers and farmers who earned all this money. And they will have to invest it more wisely than many Western countries did.

Qingming festival

Today is a traditional Chinese festival called Qingming (清明节) on which families go and visit their ancestor’s graves. On the Chinese mainland this and other traditional festivals have not been promoted to be celebrated, as they were seen as some kind of superstition since the Liberation in 1949. But also there it is still alive and even having a renaissance as it became again a public holiday in China again in 2008. In Hong Kong, Macao and Taiwan Qingming is an important family feast and Lamma Island today was full of visitors bringing flowers and little sacrifices and burning “paper money” at the graves. Latter habit kept the Island’s fire brigade at hight alert the whole day, because we had dry weather and the tombs often are a source of large hill fires. 

The Wikipedia entry in Qingming says that the celebration goes back to Emporer Xuanzong who introduced it in 732 to curb the number of expensive celebrations and limit them to one day only.

I went went to the cemetery on Lamma Island up the hill from Hung Shing Ye Beach and wondered about the grave carrying a German name of Gerd Heinz Balke who died here in 2000 at the young age of 51. I found that he was a German engineer and the author of the books Paradise fermenting and Skull dance. He lived in Po Wah Yun which is a village here on the island and the title picture of his book Paradise fermenting, a tattooed dragon, was taken by Bob Davis. Michael LaRocca in an interview speaks about his books and that he suddenly died of a heart attack. I will see whether I find a copy in the Bookworm Cafe in Yung Shue Wan

There were some fresh flowers at his grave today.

P.s. In August 2018, nearly a decade after this was posted, I was contacted though this website by a former classmate of Gerd Balke. They both studied civil engineering at the Applied University of Wuppertal. Kindly, I was also told far more about the life of Gerd and the (for me) mysterious grave on Lamma Island. The classmate also sent me an article with public information on Gerd, which I attach here for download (click here). He was returning from a Silk Road trip, before he passed away in 2000 suddenly. I am very thankful that I was contacted and my little website proofs continously to be a repository for special interests - This Post Scriptum was added on September 19th, 2018 in Tilburg (Netherlands).

Gewuerztraminer Made in Hong Kong

Going to a winery in Hong Kong should be impossible. But nothing like that is impossible in Hong Kong. In one of the old high rise factory buildings, which are so typical for the manufacturing past of this city, there a real winery. The grapes are harvested and frozen in Washington state and then shipped as a solid ice block. All wines are produced and bottled in Hong Kong. I specially liked the Gewuerztraminer.

In Unit 302, in the 3rd floor Harbor Industrial Center, 10 Hing Street, Ap Lei Chau, you would have never expected to find something like this: the www.the8estatewinery.com.

“Am deutschen Wesen mag die Welt genesen” ... (Tsingdao)

Emanuel Geibel was not a brilliant poet and this line is taken out of one of his works glorifying the “German soul” as a quint essence to heal the world. It is a very arrogant claim and it made its way into the verbal repertoire of the so-called German Emperor William II. During a time in which the big colonial forces were cutting the global cake, he wanted to be a player. Since the 1850s Germany wanted to strengthen its trading activities in the Far East by a military backbone. The murder of two German missionaries was used to invade Qingdao under the command of Otto von Diederichs and China had to give in the force by signing a 99 year lease agreement in 1898. These actions later were seen as the time of “Kanonenbootpolitik” (Battleship politics) bringing wide parts in the Pacific under German “protection”. In 1900 the Boxer Rebellion have William II to jointly with the other colonial forces, in the “Eight Army Alliance” invade China. His speech with which he saluted the depart of the German navy from Bremerhafen made it into the historical records as “Hunnenrede” in which he demands the troops to ensure that never again in history “a Chinese will even dare to look at a German”. Luckily, when German troops arrived in China, most of the fighting was already over. Unfortunately, it is not unimaginable anymore, what happens when the “German spirit” hits on demonized victims, whether they are enemies or not.

Germany tried to develop Qingdao into a role model of a colony. It was planned and designed following the most advanced urban development models of that time. It had communication cable connection to Shanghai and the port was more important at times than Hong Kong and Shanghai. Japan saw an obstacle in Qingdao being under German control and in 1914 still 5000 Germans were defending the city three months against 30 000 Japanese and were defeated in November.

Today, Qingdao is one of the most charming urban areas in China. The German settlement is in an amazing good condition and imbedded into a city full of green parks and close to the marinas of the 2008 Olympic marine disciplines. People are nice, strait forward, polite and surprisingly tall. I was told that the Chinese “dream husbands” come from Shandong Province and it is easy to see why. Like all Chinese cities, Qingdao is developing very fast. But in this special case, the city planners managed to preserve the historical heritage exceptionally well and integrate it into a modern city.

Dafen Oil Painting Village in Depression

Dafen Oil Painting village is the place in Shenzhen, where 60 % of the world’s cheap oil paintings are produced. The term “village” is a bit misleading. However, Dafen has some nice views and last year made first attempts to move “upstream” in terms of what is called arts. According to today’s issue of the South China Morning Post, in 2006 about 500 million RMB worth of paintings were exported from Dafen. The main clients were American property owners and Hotels. But since September, sales literally collapsed by 70 %. And even prices eroded 30 % still the volume keeps low. Also domestic sales is weak. Last year, even in the boom times, I felt that Dafen is a village of broken dreams for artists. So much skill and so poor living and working conditions, painting all the time the same motives. But now even this went down. The artists get laid off. And the income which was around 200 RMB per painting is now down to 20-30 RMB. It really did not take long until the financial crisis moved from Wall Street to Main Street. But here it is hitting the rice bowl now.

If you want to go there from Shenzhen by taxi and do not speak Chinese, print this for the taxi driver: Long Gang District, Da Fen Oil Painting Village, 龙岗区大芬油画村

Thomas Suarez’s “Early Mappings of South East Asia”

There are different ways to make a region a geographical unit. It can be seen geological, morphological, climatological, cultural, ethical or political for example. In the case of South-East Asia the routes and description of travelers that passed though the area between China and India seem to have a large role in defining it as a region.

Thomas Suarez book on the “Early Mapping of South East Asia” describes South East Asia through the eyes of old maps and sailing instructions. It is a fascinating and deep introduction into routes, regions and views put together from partly conflicting sources. This book is on history, geography and an adventure to read at the same time. It is obvious that Suarez is a real conaisseur and authority on early maps. His interest in South East Asia was awakened when he travelled here on concert tours as a classical violinist.

“Early Mapping of South East Asia” you find in Singapore book shops for 103 S$ or at http://www.amazon.com/Early-Mapping-Southeast-Thomas-Suarez/dp/9625934707/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&s=books&qid=1218857154&sr=8-1

A fine country (Singapore)

Right beside the impressing Campus of the Singapore Management University, close to the Central Business District of the City, is the Singapore Art Museum. I had only an hour to have a quick look what is inside the white walls and found a charming small museum showing a very good exposition of Xu Beihong. Another section on Vietnamese art after 1990 looked a bit naive to me, but I have neither insight into Vietnam’s society nor arts, so I just keep the impression as it is for now.

Singapore kept and developed much more charm than Hong Kong overall. Even it is also only a small island, it appears to be spacious and also the urban areas are green and well composed in terms of city planning. Where Hong Kong is only a business location with a completely practical approach to the use of space and hectic and noisy lifestyle, Singapore appears much more balanced in many aspects. There are parks and green spots everywhere, heritage is well preserved and new developments are matching older spots. Yes, Singapore is “a fine country”. Some people joke about this term, because they say you easily get a “fine” for also small convictions. I was told that chewing gum, for example, is not appropriate, by law. Well, thinking back to my time at a German high school, where you could not touch under a desk or chair without getting stuck in something sticky, I appreciate and understand that rule to the fullest.