Old and New

As I posted before, most of our belongings got destroyed while shipping them from Beijing to Germany at the end of last year. It became not really clear how this happened, as there were at least three companies involved in the sea freight. It is not value added by a service, when at the end of the value chain stands an insurance company. But luckily the financial settlement went through reasonably well. So, here we are: value destroyed, and price refunded - a bundle of cash in our hands. First of course, we bought the things we needed. They are actually not many. All our destroyed items have been well selected and carefully maintained. They were never our "stuff" only, but more of a collection of items. You cannot just go shopping and buy them again. Specially, as we both hate shopping anyways. But as books are closed, here and there comes a piece which is special and new, and another one which is a successor. Feibai bought me back my camera bag. Very happy with it. And soon, it will also have seen the world, as we are just now exploring it. The rest of the compensation, we decided to spend on memories and not on "souvenirs".

My brand new photo bag, as I got in in Hong Kong

My brand new photo bag, as I got in in Hong Kong

My old photo bag, carrying not just my camera, but also memories of world travel, after it was shipped from Beijing to Germany.

My old photo bag, carrying not just my camera, but also memories of world travel, after it was shipped from Beijing to Germany.

Thank you and good bye

Last Saturday I taught the last class of my course on "Management Consulting" in the MBA Programme of The University of Hong Kong. As often said, you learn things by teaching them. It is because, you have to do the abstraction first, before you can teach. And in this case, I enjoyed it even more, because I had very smart students. My guest speakers, Joanne Ooi, Thomas Lesinski and Feibai made it even more colorful. Great fun. This, and of course the very nice faculty interaction at the Faculty of Business and Economics, made me decide that I will come back later this year. For now, it is time to say thank you and good bye. But  also, as it is a term in anglo-american environments: take care and stay in touch. And I mean it. 

PMBA6016 exhausted but still smiling at the end of an intensive course. 

PMBA6016 exhausted but still smiling at the end of an intensive course. 

After a whole day teaching on Saturday, our Sunday was quiet and we started off with a long morning walk up to the little and less visited summits around The Peak. I will resume on the basic concept of not working on weekends, I think. As our next stop is Australia, this will come quite naturally, I guess. In the afternoon, we went to a movie theatre to see a performance of National Theatre Live in London. It is really a great idea for a Performing Arts venue, to reach out to a world audience this war. Very well made.

We watched Frankenstein with Benedict Cumberbatch and Jonny Lee Miller. Watch trailer by clicking here. It was amazing. Of course, it is different than being in the theatre in London. But it also has its advantages, as you have the best angles through the camera and are not bound to your seat. The performance itself was spectacular. I was shivering in my seat, not because it is "horror", but because of the way the rather deep story was represented. Back to the campus, I swiftly signed up for their Newsletter (which I do rarely) and started to re-read Mary Shelley's novel. 

One month in Hong Kong

After heading for Europe from China, and enjoying the Christmas month in a traditional environment, we were heading for a month to Hong Kong. I have lived on Lamma Island for five years. Not surprisingly, this felt more like coming come than Germany. But also some things have changed since I left for Beijing at the end of 2011. 

Hong Kong view on a hazy day (which there are many) from the end of the first section of the Wilson Trail.

Hong Kong view on a hazy day (which there are many) from the end of the first section of the Wilson Trail.

One remarkable change is the impact which the Occupy Central demonstrations had on the consciousness of many people I spoke with. No matter whether the person actually supported or disagreed with the initiative and its targets, it left marks in the understanding of the status quo. For example, a few years ago, when you asked people where they come from, they often quoted the origin of their family, for example: "I am from Guandong/Shanghai/Yunnan". Now, when you ask the same question, you mainly get the answer: "I am from Hong Kong". There are many reasons for this, which have nothing to do with the targets of the pro democracy demonstrations. But no matter why, this is not good news, as the identity gap between Hong Kong and its mother country has widened. Many people in Hong Kong are worried about the city's future. Economic reasons are prevailing for one group, as Hong Kong's economy is running only on one cylinder, which cripples most others. For others, the special rights Hong Kong has, are under threat. It is naive to believe that in a China where the Government consolidates its power and the country goes through a major transition with uncertain outcome, Hong Kong can really expand these rights. It will be hard enough, even only to preserve the status quo. Often I heard that Hong Kong would like to be the "democratic experiment" for China. But back when the agreement of "One Country, Two Systems" was formed, what was meant with two systems was Capitalism and Communism, not Democracy and Dictatorship. And as a "Capitalist Experiment", Hong Kong has failed, as the so-called free economy here, still tied up Adam Smith's invisible hand. So why should the "Democratic Experiment" work any better, in the eyes of the Beijing Government? 

My life in the University of Hong Kong, and as a guest on its campus, is of course very different from most people here. I enjoyed very much starting the days with breakfast in the company of other visiting faculty. As as friendships grow and old ones re-connect, I gathered again a sense of home here. Still very different from living on my island in the South China Sea, but close. Also, the very friendly welcome and the many helpful hands, made this stay very nice. Last but not least, I had a great class of postgraduate students to teach, which I really enjoyed. Still I also got reminded of the downsides of Hong Kong, specially the incredible noise pollution, and the often very closed mindset. I never understood how a city which is technically so open, can be so self centered. But as a short term visitor, surrounded with the forefront of Hong Kong academics and entrepreneurs, these downsides vanished into the backdrop and were easy to be ignored. 

I like Hong Kong. Not every part of it. But I like the country parks, as well as the narrow street canyons. It is a city that works, and people make the most out of their limited resources. In the end Hong Kong, is a city "on the rocks" - where no city would have been built, was there not an anomaly in history. It is a city that exists against the odds. And as long as it keeps its skills of doing so, it will be an interesting place to visit. 

Good news from a far away country

On a visit to the Hong Kong General Post Office, I saw the former gate kept hanging on an inner wall, of the today very practical building. It says: "As cold waters to a thirsty soul, so is good news from a far away country". I know this spot, as I always liked writing letters and postcards, and came here often during the days living here. It is an unpractical, but beautiful alternative to the electronic means we have. Imagine, back in these days, what it meant to receive somewhere in England a letter from the Colony "Victoria", Hong Kong. Perhaps generations later, these papers were found in an abandoned storage in a shoe box. And what stories they told, and what travel they witnessed? And what do they tell the people who find them? Wondering who will log on our servers, and download our emails one day, long after we have gone. And how would we they even find the plot of our life's stories in all these gigabytes? Will they have to do "Data Mining", or find love letters by "Big Data"? 

Jungle Books

Hong Kong is a funny place, as it is very easy to be accelerated by its speed. After a few hours of buzz, I am always happy to retreat either into my University Office, or back to our temporary home in the Robert Black College Guesthouse. From here I overlook the main campus of the University of Hong Kong, and see even a bit of Victoria Harbour. On my right I have a judge view, and this is why I coined the book I read here "jungle books". This week's highlights so far, were very interesting. When I start with this morning, Barry Kerzin and me ambulated together up to The Peak and I showed him my favorite spot (off the crowds) to overlook Hong Kong. Who would have thought, that I (the orthodox atheist par excellence) become friends with a Buddhist Monk, and find this interesting and inspiring. And he does not just make me think, but we also laugh about the same jokes. Yesterday - the second highlight of this week - I met the newly appointed Dean of the Business School of the University of Science and Technology: Prof. Jitendra Singh. Very quickly our conversation went far beyond business and I was hugely impressed by the broadness and excellent analysis of our exchange. After the meeting, unplanned, we stayed in his office over a spinach pie and continued the conversation, overlooking the sea of Clearwater Bay and its islands. Since then, I have been thinking how the three big players of Business Education could join forces to do even more for Hong Kong.

Jungle Book view from Robert Black College Guesthouse.

Jungle Book view from Robert Black College Guesthouse.

Monday-Sunday

As yesterday afternoon I was panelist in a class of the Kellogg EMBA Programme visiting Hong Kong and China, I decided today to make Monday a Sunday. And what could be better to do on such a day than going for a hike. Choose the first section of the Wilson Trail on Hong Kong Island, starting North of Stanley. Very beautiful views. I found that from the places I feel home, the Hong Kong Country parks are one of them. Entry point is not that easy to find, so you may want to download the GPS-log (GPX-Format) by clicking here.

Steep starting point of the Wilson Trail, North of Stanley (Hong Kong Island)

Steep starting point of the Wilson Trail, North of Stanley (Hong Kong Island)

Map view of the first section of the Wilson Trail

Map view of the first section of the Wilson Trail

View before descending down into the buzzing Hong Kong

View before descending down into the buzzing Hong Kong

Back to the classroom

Teaching my MBA Elective at HKU is great fun. It is a very nice class of smart and engaged students. Even the course covers the whole Saturday and is quite intense, a critical mass stays switched on all day. Given that some of them have a full time job aside, I really respect this level of energy. The Friday before, we had an excellent dinner with Maurice Tse, Sachin Tipnis and Josephine Chan. Under the leadership Dean Eric Chan, their team has built up the MBA Programme of the University of Hong Kong to the level that it was recently ranked Best Programme in Asia by The Economist. Given the intense competition in the region, this is really an outstanding achievement. I know this from my own previous experience with launching the EMBA Global Asia here in Hong Kong University. It is tough. So congratulations. Even rankings are not the only thing to look at, they do reflect the quality of delivery and design of educational programs, and last but not least the standard of students. And this time they are really good. Nice to be back to the classroom.

Getting ready for the next lecture on Sunday

Getting ready for the next lecture on Sunday

New Territories

Yesterday morning I made a trip to the wonderful green campus of the Chinese University of Hong Kong in the New Territories in Shatin. Was nice to be on the train to Luohu again after so many years. It changed. Still of course it is the terrestrial axis for a lot of exchange between Hong Kong and Shenzhen, which in many ways are becoming more and more sister cities. The train carries a large spectrum of people: transit travelers, business people, trades people, students. In my perception there were this time less smugglers, and less "foreign friends" yelling at their mainland factory managers on the phone. For those who want to know more, a nice local literary account of this train is The Train to Lo Wu by Jess Row.

I dropped off the train at the University station, briefly took the chance to congratulate Kalok Chan, the recently appointed Dean of the Business School, on his new position. Then I had an excellent lunch and conversation with Michael Ferguson and Marjorie Chang, whom I both have not seen for ages. Definitely I wanted to spend more time on the campus, but returned to HKU in the afternoon to attend the public lecture of Roderick MacFarquhar, who is currently visiting from Harvard University as a Distinguished Chair Professor. He spoke on China in Transition - The Impact of Xi Jingping. His book Mao's Last Revolution, co-authored with Michael Schoenhals, has been on my reading list for long. Now that I heard the lecture, actually I want to add his publications on the Great Leap Forward. But my reading list is already very long and I have to catch up with the current titles first.

This talk was really excellent. Among many insights, my main takeaway was, that Xi Jingping might be better understood, when acknowledging that the collapse of the Soviet Union was a trauma for the Chinese Communist Party. If you look at what made the Soviets fail, then some of the tight actions of the new Chinese government are better understood. Also, it was interesting to see the current role of the PLA and the curbing of corruption seen in perspective. As a evening event I attended the Swire scholar's event on the Fall of the Berlin Wall in the Robert Black's College Guesthouse. It was a nice little gathering, and great to get to know most of my neighbors. 

Midtime Hong Kong

Every morning around five, groups of elderly ladies gather on the still empty campus and do exercise. Sometimes it is a form of Tai Chi, sometimes normal gymnastics and stretching. It is not surprising when you see this that Hong Kong has one of the world's highest life expectancies. I was also told it is a certain soup, people drink here. Mostly, it is of course the well managed public health service. So, it gets a bit noisy in the early morning, while our days starts with a late breakfast, where we often meet and chat Barry Kerzin, who recently founded an initiative on Altruism in Medicine and is teaching at the Medical School and the Centre of Buddhist Studies. Very refreshing. 

My courses are going well, and I am trying not to be overwhelmed by all the friendly and kind invitations I receive, since I am here. One month, I have to admit, is too short. Next time would be longer. It is already mid-time in Hong Kong. 

Construction workers in Wanchai. I love the practical spirit in Hong Kong. Though this one looks a bit unstable, it is perfectly save. Perhaps. 

Construction workers in Wanchai. I love the practical spirit in Hong Kong. Though this one looks a bit unstable, it is perfectly save. Perhaps. 

Campus life

Enjoying the campus, since this week I moved into my new office on the Main Campus of  The University of Hong Kong. Even the view is less spectacular than in Cyberport, I like the atmosphere. It is nice to mingle across faculties, and to catch up with friends and what is often called the business world. Quite enjoyable and sparking many new ideas. Tomorrow will be a long teaching day and I am looking forward to see what my students came up with in their assignments. This should become an interesting discussion. And for the next week, we already raise the stakes. 

Hanging out in the Earth Sciences of The University of Hong Kong.

Hanging out in the Earth Sciences of The University of Hong Kong.

First week in Hong Kong

Since I have arrived in Hong Hong I have been preparing course material, teaching a class of smart students at HKU, and catching up with friends. The week passed by very quickly, and perhaps I should have scheduled more than a month in town. But we can always come back. Yesterday, we visited my friend Magnus Barlett in his habitat on Lamma Island - the publisher of wonderful books and maps and owner of Odyssey Publishing Company. It is always a nice trip over to the island, specially off the beaten tracks. Sure, there is a bit of melancholy swinging for me when setting foot on the island. There were times I thought I should have never left it, perhaps like the pianist in the movie 1900. We had coffee on his sunny terrace and seafood, as you should never miss it, when you come here. Magnus' parents were painters and at his wall, in his study, he has a painting by his father, showing a bedroom in their house in Greece. It immediately resonated with me, like Chambre a Arles. I like it a lot.

Room in Greece (Bartlett Sr., as taken with a point and shoot camera on Magnus' wall - against the South China sea sunlight coming in from the right)

Room in Greece (Bartlett Sr., as taken with a point and shoot camera on Magnus' wall - against the South China sea sunlight coming in from the right)

49th Birthday in Hong Kong

Many thanks for all the birthday wishes. I have spent quietly my 49th birthday, working leisurely and having a modern Japanese dinner in the Hong Kong Mid Levels. It is a perfect season here: palms, but no mosquitos. I am impressed by the new HKU subway station, which just opened a few weeks ago (MTR they call it here). In 10 minutes I can be in Admiralty.  Very kindly, the Faculty Office will provide me an office on campus from next week on. Cyberport has a great view and excellent facilities, but of course the main campus has a different aura and it is easier to mingle with colleagues and friends.

I am enjoying a lot to stay at a comprehensive University, which spans all faculties. Joined a talk by Prof. Lucien Bianco yesterday, comparing the role of peasants in the Communist Revolutions in Russia and China. Was interesting for me to realize that the Russian Communists had their waves of rapid modernization, leading to severe famines, well before Mao's Big Leap Forward. They could have been a warning for Mao, what might happen. He either didn't do his homework, or had other priorities. 

My main focus is now on preparing lectures, which will start by tomorrow. This will be fun.

Winter kicked in

We ended the Christmas days with the Villa Musica chamber concert in Engers Palace, which is just 20 minutes drive down through the forest, just at the right Rhine river bank. And just one day after, finally the winter kicked in with snowfall. Very nice. If winter at all, then it should be with snow. Now the morning walk to the (indoor) pool goes through a beautiful winter forest scenery. We also had very nice reunions with friends, and slowly 2014 chills and the new year can come.

Engers Palace: a former hunting residence of the Dukes to Wied.

Engers Palace: a former hunting residence of the Dukes to Wied.

A Merian illustration of Engers castle.

A Merian illustration of Engers castle.

Early morning walk after the snow came.

Early morning walk after the snow came.

Christmas flora getting weird

White Christmas has been still a reality in Westerwald (Germany) for quite a while. But this year interestingly there are 7 - 8 degree Celsius during daytime and night temperature not far below that, and well above zero. No frost. The general weather pattern of this region is, that we have wet Westerly winds at the end of December. So, it is not unusual that frost comes only in early January, when winds turn to East and North-East. But still, this is unusual that in the time associated with winter, you have Daisies in the garden and trees still with flowers. For the bigger picture: if this is climate change, then the first predictions I heard in my Meteorology classes at Cologne University in 1986 actually are coming true. Should the others also come true, then we are in a deep mess.

Christmas view 2014 in Westerwald (Germany)

Christmas view 2014 in Westerwald (Germany)

Not exactly a white Christmas

Not exactly a white Christmas

Christmas Markets

It is nice to be back in Germany for Christmas. I enjoy the atmosphere. Some people blame it to be too commercial these days. But it is your own choice: it is supply and demand, on any market - also the Christmas Market. Demand seems to be not that big, as many shops go in with heavy discounts, already before the feast. For me, as an orthodox atheist, Christmas is a cultural event, which is deeply rooted in Europe. And I like it. I think, that's what Alain de Button calls "Atheism 2.0". We strolled around the Christmas Markets and yesterday went to the Christmas Concert in the State Theatre in Wiesbaden. Quite fun. Have not been in a civilized concert for a while. 

People doing the last Christmas shopping on December 23rd in Wiesbaden, as seen on a ferris wheel ride.

People doing the last Christmas shopping on December 23rd in Wiesbaden, as seen on a ferris wheel ride.

Preparations for the Christmas Concert in the Wiesbaden State Theatre. View from the loge of William II. It is better than our seats, I have a say.

Preparations for the Christmas Concert in the Wiesbaden State Theatre. View from the loge of William II. It is better than our seats, I have a say.

Total destruction

Yesterday we unpacked our sea shipment, which brought most of our belongings from China to Germany. It was a shock. Some boxes must have stood in water for weeks. Opening them, the odor of mold was everywhere. Clothes, shoes, bags, suitcases where completely covered with black and green fungus. You can not stay close to them without a face mask. It is a complete loss of everything. All what's left are the things we brought with us in our suitcases. This was not a self-organized move, but a service provided by one of the "best of the best" relocation companies. It is hard to believe this, when you see the condition of the items. I wish I would have organized it by myself. Seeing all material memories on a pile of stinky trash, is sad. I never had many things, but they were all carefully selected and carry memories of people and places and the ones who made them. For Feibai, all she brought to her new home and life, is gone. 

Nearly nothing survived this. 

Nearly nothing survived this. 

Copenhagen

I never thought, going North (or South), you can actually get a jet lag. Well, go to Copenhagen in mid December and you will. The days are really short. But even with the lack of daylight, I liked Copenhagen a lot. It is quite a "cool" town and again, compared with Berlin (which has a hype these days), Copenhagen wins for me. I held a seminar on the future of the Chinese Automotive Industry at the Asian Research Center of the Copenhagen Business School. We had a very friendly welcome, and people were extremely knowledgable in the lively discussion. Friends showed us around the old meat packing district, where we went to an excellent fish restaurant. There are all kinds of corners, which are becoming interesting in town. We will return in summer.

Nyhaven morning view

Nyhaven morning view

A very interesting exhibition in the Danish National Museum on the pros and cons of fur fashion, in the light of the Greenland industry.

A very interesting exhibition in the Danish National Museum on the pros and cons of fur fashion, in the light of the Greenland industry.

Finishing a week in Amsterdam

Leaving Amsterdam, after a week in town and a little trip to the countryside and coast in a small Fiat 500. I really like the practical and liberal mindset which is shaping the town. There is a lot less whining than in Berlin and other German cities. It seems, that if you smoke Cannabis all day, then you chose that as a lifestyle, and not the society made you a victim. But actually, I have not seen many people doing this anyways and the topic itself seem to excite tourists more than locals. The town is quite energetic and mixes history and innovation in a very nice manner. The practicality of Amsterdam also appears to be different from what I experienced in Hong Kong, which I found one dimensional and far too commercial. Even Amsterdam is also a traditional place of traders, still the mindset is far less speculative than in Hong Kong. Sure, the Dutch experienced their first reported economic bubble market crash in 1637, in what was called “Tulip Mania”. Dutch tradesmen know very well, that they have to find something innovative to source if they want to stay competitive. Last but not least the Netherlands have excellent Universities and own capabilities to do so. My impressions are just the ones of a short visit, and far away from a general judgement. But what I have seen, I liked - except the weather. But that’s fine.