“Panta Rhei – Everything Flows”

Last night, I had the pleasure of joining the vernissage of the solo exhibition of Rosette Bonello at Rudy Buhler’s Art Gallery in Marsaskala. I walked along the coast from Kalkara, at the end of a stormy day, which expanded into the night. It is always impressive to see how the rock has been able to withstand the waves for ages. Rudy was a Swiss banker for most of his professional life and now manages to bring a cultural spotlight to this village in Southern Malta. This exhibition is called “Panta Rhei – Everything Flows” and runs until December 22nd at Quayside Court, 58 Triq Is-Salini.

During the day before, I went through many of my things in Malta and sorted and maintained what needed to be done. Besides the practicalities, I also found my old calendars, especially the 2014 one, caught my attention. This was my last year living in China, and the beginning of a world trip and my European adventure. It is great to have these calendars and be able to move back in time and even sense life’s atmosphere. Back then, it ended 12 years in China and started for new horizons. It was a similar time to what it is now. But a lot has changed also. Some people, yes, but also how the world works.

Back in the day, it was, for example, possible to share exact plans and locations online. There were people writing back and asking questions very specific questions and the exchange was light-hearted. Since then, also the online world has become a more hostile place, and comments reflect less inspiration but greed. That’s why I am not on social media except LinkedIn, which hopefully maintains professionalism. Running this blog feels already anachronistic and untouched of that.

Re-inspired by browsing through my paper diaries, notebooks and calendars, I obtained a 5-year diary. Here, you have the same day on one page, and by “scrolling up” with your eyes, you have a direct comparison over time. It would not make sense today to have a paper calendar anymore because coordination and scheduling have become more of a life tool than a lifestyle. But such diaries run parallel to the office world in a nice way.

Also, I re-plenished myself from my local stock of small notebooks. I always carry these to capture information and impressions. In recent years, with being less mobile, I have switched to larger formats. But now, it will be more of the small Moleskine type again, and Riteintherain for the tougher outdoor notes. Given that I cannot carry many books, I also re-set my Amazon Kindle. That’s the only reason to keep my Amazon account open. But for the coming trip to Canada, I will take a paper copy of Joan Didion’s "Slouching Towards Bethlehem". She had something to say about how to use notebooks as a tool but even more about the chaotic and rapidly changing cultural landscape in the USA of the 1960s. And of course, I will put more American authors now on my reading list. Suggestions are welcome.

My 2014 calendar, which marks the last of 12 years living in China. Recovered (and cleaned thoroughly) in Malta.

Kalkara Festa

From May to September, the Maltese villages proudly celebrate their Festas to honour their patron saints. It’s quite competitive among villages: decorating with flags and statues, traditional music bands parading the streets, sweets and food, and amazing fireworks. And you better clean up your house before the festa and decorate your windows at least. Processions will follow, and church bells will keep going. However you stand to the religious aspects, the Festas are just nice and happy.

Kalkara got a new waterside promenade. It isn’t completely finished yet, but it’s for sure a construction project upgrading the whole village. Whether finished or not, it is already an integral part of the party in front of the Kalkara church.

There is no sign that the “heatwave” will stop people from having a good time. It is the hottest time of the year, and in August, there will likely be additional humidity kicking in. But that’s how it has been every year, and there maybe, of course, a trend that things get hotter. But nobody complains here, but just switch activities to before and after sunset.

Sunshine after rain

There was a teriffic storm in Malta. My plan to enjoy an earlier start of spring there, than in Germany, did not succeed. There were even biblical scenes of fish bashed out of the sea onto the roads. Some of the offshore fish farms broke open in the wild sea. Back in Germany, I spent most time in the National Library in Frankfurt and stroll through the museums from time to time, when I need a break. I closed my Facebook account, as it became too repetitive and actually a bit boring. Those missing me there, can follow here on my website, which I will revive a little in the months to come. I kept the Instagram account though, and if you visit this website from a PC browser you can see this “snaps” in the right hand column.

View from home, when there is sunshine after rain.

Memento mori

Cemetraries are some of my favorite “hangouts”. They provide solitude, good perspective on many aspects of life, memories, tell stories and also say a lot about the local culture by how people treat their ancestors. Military graveyards additionally remind us of the nonsense and horrors of war. There is many of all this on the Capuccini Naval Cemetary. But what is special for me, is that here lies Henry Ernst Wild who survived the Shackleton expedition and then died of typhoid in Malta.

Capuccini Naval Cemetary, Kalkara (Malta)

New Year Walk

Like every year, also 2019 started with a long walk. This time it was from Kalkara to Marsaskala, along the rocky coast and back; a bit more than 20 kilimeters. As of the strong wind from the New Year's night, the sea was rolling on the roks with high swell and in its typical turquoise color for sunny days in Malta. There is no better way than starting a new year like this. 

The long stretch of rocky coast from Kalkara to Marsaskala. 

Coastal watchtower

Sea rolling in on the watchtower

Kalkara Naval Cemetery

Dead people are very good companions. That's why I like sitting down at the Kalkara Naval Cemetery to read my book. Specially now with mild temperatures, this is very pleasant. The place itself has also some historical relevance, which I am not too interested in. It is one of the Commonwealth War Graves. I always found the term "Commonwealth" rather cynical. I also don't like "Heros" very much, specially when we talk about people who put themselves into service of brutal expansion and invasion of others to serve economic or ideological interest. There are a lot of this kind of Heroes here. But when they are dead, they are fine for me.

When I travel to new places, I always try to visit two venues: a cemetery and a market. They both tell you a lot about the local culture, sometimes much more than the municipal museums. There are many differences in cemeteries: sometimes people are cremated and put into small compartments, and in other places cemeteries are like cities for the dead. They all have in common that they function as a memorial for the deceased. It must be a basic human desire across all cultures, that people want to be remembered. And when you read the tombstones, there is the second commonality: they want to have made sense. The third thing which is important, you can't find on the cemetery, but when you talk to dying people. They want to be forgiven. And that's not so much the forgiveness of a superior being, like a "god". But they want to be forgiven by those who they disappointed. No matter where in the world you are, I think these three things are the same. 

I like cemeteries also because they are quiet and somehow a good backdrop to being a bit philosophical. Cemeteries at least show a direction in life, 

The heat is on

Kalkara is having a feast. It is the kind of annual celebration most towns and villages in Malta have in turns. It is a joyful one, with music, fireworks, food, wine and laughter. Communities here are local, but welcome all to join in. With the view on the neighboring towns or villages, all feasts tend to be more grand each year. And with respect to increasing altitude fireworks reach, the airport adjusts along the year its operational mode to stay out of the way. These days Malta is struck by some heat waves, pushing the mercury up to 44 degree Celsius. After noon until four all outdoor life gets quiet. Only the ones preparing the fireworks, are working under the boiling sun. The construction sites become very quiet during this season. I tried myself and it is impossible to move more that a few bricks, before longing for some shade. People in Malta are hard working. The reputation of Mediterranean lax does not apply here. Actually, I think it applies really nowhere in the Mediterranean. Not even in Libya. This myth must have been invented by people just coming and watch without feeling the heat themselves. For those who think austerity and discipline are the path to prosperity, yes (!), but just come and try to make a move outdoors when the sun stands high. Sure, there are a lot of things which can improve, no doubt. But working harder, is not one of them.

At the Kalkara waterfront. The village feast is on, but all is quiet during the day.

The construction site of Cospicua's Dock number one, which will become one of the campuses of the American University of Malta.

Fire works, after the show.

Village entrance to Kalkara.